
How to Move a Pool Table: A Professional Guide
Pool tables combine precise engineering with considerable weight, making them uniquely challenging to relocate.
Moving a pool table requires careful disassembly, methodical packing, and precise reassembly. Most importantly, you need the right knowledge and tools.
This guide walks you through the entire process of moving a pool table, helping you understand why each step matters and how to execute it properly.
With careful attention to detail and the right approach, you can move your pool table without compromising its performance.
A Pool Table Is NOT a Regular Table
A pool table needs special care during a move. Many people see a pool table as just another piece of furniture, but this misconception can lead to costly mistakes. The average pool table weighs between 650 and 1,000 pounds, with the slate table section alone weighing around 450 pounds.
Moving a pool table across the same room requires at least four strong people and proper equipment. Moving it to another room or building demands even more planning and skill.
The table's weight isn't the only challenge. A pool table contains precisely calibrated parts that keep the playing surface perfectly level. One wrong move can throw off this balance and ruin your game.
Many pool table owners learn this lesson the hard way. They damage their tables trying to move them like regular furniture, often scratching floors and walls in the process. Bad idea.
The smarter choice? Break down the table into manageable pieces. A proper disassembly protects both your table and your property.
For old pool tables especially, attempting a complete move without disassembly risks permanent damage. The joints and connections in these tables often weaken over time. If you're unsure about handling the move yourself, hire professionals who specialize in pool table relocation.
The Tools You’ll Need
Here's a complete list of tools you'll need, organized by category:
Hand Tools
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Socket wrench set with multiple sizes for various bolts and nuts
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Flathead screwdriver for pocket removal and detailed work
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Phillips head screwdriver for miscellaneous screws
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Staple remover for felt detachment
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Measuring tape for documenting positions
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4-foot level for slate alignment
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Torpedo level for detailed leveling work
Power Tools
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Power drill with various drill bits
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Drill bit set that matches your table's hardware
Moving Equipment
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2-4 furniture dollies (rated for at least 1000 pounds)
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Heavy-duty moving straps
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Pool table jack (recommended for slate removal)
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Enclosed trailer or covered truck for transport
Protection Materials
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6-8 thick moving blankets
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Heavy-duty plastic wrap
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Corner protectors for slate pieces
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Work gloves (preferably with grip coating)
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Safety glasses
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Knee pads for detailed floor work
Organization Supplies
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Resealable plastic bags for hardware
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Permanent marker for labeling
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Notepad for measurements and notes
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Small parts organizers or containers
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Sturdy cardboard tube for felt storage
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Silica gel packets for moisture control
Steps to Move a Pool Table
Once you ensure that you have everything you need, it's time to get to work. Moving a pool table requires careful planning and attention to detail.
Each step ensures the safety of both the table and the people moving it. Let's break down the process, starting with disassembly.
Step 1: Disassembly
Here’s how to do it:
1. Clear the Playing Surface
Start by measuring your table's current level with a professional-grade leveling tool. Take measurements and photos of how the table sits.
This creates a reference point for setting up in your new location. Remove all accessories, but don't forget to check under the table for chalk or other items that might have rolled there.
Related: What's the Best Floor Surface for My Pool Table?
2. Remove Each Pocket
The corner pockets connect differently than the side pockets. Corner pockets typically have two anchor points and a support bracket, while side pockets use single-bolt systems.
Look for small metal clips that might be hiding under rubber bumpers. Some vintage tables use brass fasteners that need special handling to prevent oxidation.
3. Detach the Rails
The rails conceal the slate bolts beneath them, so they must be removed first. Each rail section connects to the slate using 3-4 bolts spaced about 18 inches apart.
Modern tables often use T-nut systems, while older ones might have wood screws. Map out the rail positions on paper; rails wear into specific spots over time and work best in their original positions.
4. Remove the Table Felt
Professional felt attaches in two ways: staples or glue. Stapled felt starts at the head of the table and pulls toward the foot end.
Glued felt needs special adhesive remover to prevent slate damage. Watch for signs of trapped moisture under the felt. These dark spots mean you might need to treat the slate for rust before reinstalling new felt.
5. Take Apart the Slate
Slate comes in two configurations: one piece or three pieces. Three-piece slate uses alignment dowels between sections.
These dowels must come out clean to prevent future misalignment. The slate sits on a wooden frame with leveling shims. Document exactly where each shim sits; this detail makes the difference between a level table and one that plays poorly.
6. Detach the Legs
Legs support tons of weight over years of play. Check the mounting points for signs of stress or splitting wood. Most tables use corner braces with built-in levelers.
These braces often hide secondary support bolts that people miss. Remove the levelers first, then the leg bolts, keeping each set separate.
Note: Each step requires patience and proper tools. Professional movers spend an average of three hours on disassembly alone.
The smallest mistakes here multiply into major problems during reassembly. If you spot any cracks, warping, or unusual wear, stop and consult a professional. The cost of expert help is far less than replacing a damaged table.
Step 2: Packing and Transport
After disassembly, proper packing and transportation make the difference between a successful move and a damaged table. Each component needs specific handling to arrive safely at your new location.
1. Protect the Slate
The slate pieces form the heart of your pool table. Wrap each piece of slate individually in thick moving blankets, securing them with quality packing tape.
Never stack slate pieces, as one small bump can chip or crack them. Place each wrapped piece vertically against the truck wall, with padding between them. Add corner protectors to prevent the edges from being damaged by impact.
2. Secure the Frame Components
The table's frame requires careful wrapping despite its sturdy appearance. Its joints will flex during transport, so wrap each section separately.
Pay special attention to the connection points and bolt holes. A single bent joint can make reassembly impossible. Use bubble wrap for small parts and wrap the larger sections in moving blankets.
3. Pack the Rails and Hardware
Rails need protection from both impact and moisture. Their rubber bumpers can permanently deform under pressure, so avoid stacking anything on top of them.
Store all hardware in clearly labeled plastic bags, then place these bags in a solid container. Add silica gel packets to prevent rust on metal components during transport.
4. Load the Vehicle Properly
Start loading with the heaviest items, which are the slate pieces. Position them against the front wall of the truck, spreading their weight evenly across the axle.
Create separate zones for frame parts, rails, and hardware. Fill empty spaces with padding material to prevent shifting. An enclosed trailer offers the best protection from weather and road debris.
5. Protect the Felt
If you're reusing the felt, roll it carefully around a cardboard tube. Avoid folding it, as creases become permanent. Store the rolled felt in a heavy-duty plastic bag to protect it from moisture and dirt. Keep it separate from other components to prevent snags or tears.
Related: Is It Safe to Iron Pool Table Felt?
6. Drive with Extra Care
Pool tables suffer the most damage during transportation. Avoid sudden stops and sharp turns. Take speed bumps at an angle to prevent jolting the cargo.
Monitor your load frequently, especially during long trips. The vibration from normal driving can loosen even well-secured items.
Keep in mind: A professional move uses hydraulic lift gates and specialized dollies, but careful packing and thoughtful driving can achieve similar results. Remember that pool tables weren't designed for frequent moves. Each trip increases the risk of damage.
Step 3: Reassembly
The reassembly process in your new location demands even more precision than taking the table apart. We know we sound like a broken record constantly reminding you of this, but even the slightest misalignments now will affect every game you play later.
The idea is to do everything in reverse order. Here’s how:
1. Install the Leg Base
Start with a thorough cleaning of your game room floor. Place the frame exactly where you want your table to stay.
Install the leg levelers first, adjusting them roughly to match your floor's contours. Attach each leg using your power drill and socket wrench, but don't fully tighten the bolts yet.
2. Position the Frame
The frame needs perfect leveling before it takes on any considerable weight. Use a professional-grade level on all sides.
Yes, this step often frustrates excited family members who want to rush ahead, but patience here prevents significant damage later.
Related: What's the Best Floor Surface for My Pool Table?
3. Place the Slate
The slate pieces are extremely heavy, so plan your movements carefully. Lower each piece onto the frame with at least four people helping.
If you have a three-piece slate, align the first piece perfectly before moving to the next. Use your level between each placement.
4. Level the Playing Surface
This critical step makes or breaks your table's playability. Work the leg levelers until each slate piece sits perfectly flat.
Check the seams between pieces. They should feel smooth under your fingers. A gap as small as a credit card's thickness will ruin your game.
5. Install the Rails
The rails must go back to their original positions. Your socket wrench comes in handy here, tighten each bolt gradually in a star pattern, similar to mounting a car tire.
This technique ensures even pressure across the rail.
6. Add New Felt
Skip the staple remover - you'll need new staples anyway. Start at the head of the table, pulling the felt tight as you work toward the foot.
A single wrinkle will show up in every shot you take. Professional installers use special tools here, but careful hand-stretching can work for a short distance.
7. Reattach the Pockets
The corner castings need perfect alignment with your rails and felt. Test each pocket's stability before moving on.
Many tables develop odd angles over time; your pockets should match these worn spots exactly.
8. Final Adjustments
Test everything. Roll a ball across every inch of the table. Listen for uneven sounds. Watch how balls behave in each pocket.
Small adjustments now save hours of frustration later. Never move the table even a short distance without releveling it completely.
Related: Pool Table Room Decor: Your Full Guide
Shop at Seybert’s Today
Moving a pool table demands time, patience, and attention to detail. While this guide provides comprehensive instructions, some situations might require professional help.
At some point, you may need a new table, and when you do, Seybert's has you covered for all your billiard needs.
At Seybert's Billiard Supply, we understand your passion for the game and offer everything you need to enjoy billiards at its finest.
From premium cues to professional accessories, we stock only the highest quality products. Visit our website to explore our complete collection of billiards supplies.
Your pool table represents a significant investment in your game room, and we're here to help you make the most of it with our professional-grade equipment and accessories.
Also Read: Pool Table Buying Guide: Expert Advice for Making the Perfect Choice